1. TILL SOIL - Till the soil to a depth of 6 inches and allow to dry. If soil is heavy clay, add organic matter prior to tilling. Never use fresh sawdust. You may till limestone or gypsum in at this point.

2. GRADE - Remove debris and slope grade away from house and patio. Level and finish grades 1 inch below sidewalk and driveway.

3. ROLL - Roll with a water filled lawn roller to firm soil, if necessary. If soil is damp, use less water in your roller.

4. LIME - Rake and mix lime into soil with a garden rake, or till into the soil. This is to get the desired pH of 6.8 to 7.0.

5. FERTILIZE - Prior to laying turf, fertilize at the rate of 10 pounds of fertilizer (or equal) per 1000 square feet. Rake lightly, touching up final grade.

1. LAY TURF - Lay turf in a straight line starting along driveway or with a string. Stagger the end joints brick style. Join bevels together for best fit.

2. KEEP MOIST — Lightly water every 100 square feet or so as you lay turf in hot weather. Keep turf damp while installing. DO NOT ALLOW TURF TO DRY OUT OR IT WILL PERISH. Break down pallets of sod immediately in hot, dry weather as this allows cooling.

3. ROLL - Roll with a lawn roller (1/3 to 1/2 filled with water), diagonally to the joints to firm the roots to the soil below. If soil is too wet or very soft, wait several weeks then roll.

4. FERTILIZE - After installing turf, fertilize at the rate of 10 pounds of REDETURF RT-2 fertilizer (or equal) per 1000 square feet and water in lightly immediately.

5. WATER- Water, soaking thoroughly to a depth of 6 inches below turf. Avoid excessive run off. In dry, hot weather never allow turf to dry out until well rooted (usually 2 to 3 weeks).

1. WATER - After roots of your turf are well established, frequency of watering can be reduced to once or twice a week. A watering schedule must be adapted to individual conditions. One deep watering is superior to several light waterings. Don't water beyond the point of run off. Watering in early morning is preferred.

2. MOW - All turf should be mowed at least once a week during the growing season to a height of 1 1/2 inches. Keep mower sharp and never cut over 1/3 of the blade length at each mowing.

3. FERTILIZE - Fertilization is the key to healthy turf. RT-2 is the proper blend of balanced nutrients (16-4-8) with slow release nitrogen and trace elements.

4. INSECTS/WEEDS — If insect populations build up, consult your local nursery or county extension agent for help. The best defense against weeds is healthy growing turf. When controlling weeds with herbicides, be very careful around plants and flowers. Never apply on windy or rainy days.

1. The ground preparation is the same as in the sodded lawn.
2. Sow the seed by using a broadcast spreader.
3. After spreading the seeds you should water lightly several times daily to avoid having the ground dry out. AVOID excessive watering.

1. You should let the grass grow to at least 3 and half to 4 inches before cutting the first time.
2. Fertilize every 6 weeks during growing season.

Duble,Richard. Turfgrasses. 2^nd Ed. Texas A.M. University Press. 1996.

Gill, Jody and Sam Ferro. "Growing Bermuda-Grass in Kansas." Sports Turf Magazine June 1999.

Ferro, Sam. "The Importance of a Quality Turf Laboratory." Sports Turf Magazine February 1999.

Dixon, Charles R., "Are You Improving Drainage or Just Burying Your Money?" Turf Diagnostics and

Design

Turgeon,A.J. Turfgrass Management. 5^th Ed. Prentice Hall, N.J. 1999.

Nick Price

Ford McCabe