DATE: 10/17/96 WRITER: Bob Polomski, (864) 656-2604 Getting to the Root of Cacti Problems Q. My large Christmas cactus isn't doing well. Healthy branches turn yellow and eventually brown and die. Meanwhile, smaller, younger Christmas cacti in my collection look fine. What can I do to correct this problem? A. Let's get to the root of the problem before making any recommendations. Gently slip your cactus out of the pot and examine its roots. If they are dark brown or black and their skin slips off easily, suspect root rot. Overwatering or poor drainage can cause this condition to occur. Trim off the diseased roots. If the plant is simply potbound, the container will be filled with roots. Some may even be spiraling around the outside of the rootball. Cut them with a sharp knife to prevent them from girdling the plant. Also, make shallow cuts on opposite sides of the rootball and along the bottom to free-up the congested roots. In either case, repot the cactus into a clean pot with well-drained media, such as two parts of a standard potting mix and one part each of peat moss and perlite or coarse, sharp sand. If you had to root-prune, monitor the plant closely over the next several weeks to help it produce new roots quickly and overcome transplant shock. Water thoroughly, but do not fertilize for at least a month. Thereafter, feed monthly with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer from early spring through early fall. If after dislodging your cactus from the pot you find white, healthy roots dotting the walls of the root ball, I would suspect that the leaf-yellowing was caused by a lack of fertility. If your cactus was growing in the same pot for several years without being fertilized or receiving an annual topdressing of compost or fresh media, the soil could have been exhausted of nutrients. Repotting the cactus and following the fertilization program as described above should improve the health and appearance of your plant. Mist the plant often during its active growth period and water it regularly to keep the mix moist, but not soggy. Avoid the temptation to irrigate your entire collection at each watering. I expect that the smaller cacti growing in smaller pots would require more frequent watering, and, hence, have benefitted from the attention; however, the larger cacti, like the one in question, would prefer to be watered less often and only when the soil indicates a need. In the fall when shoot growth slows down, allow the soil surface to dry between waterings to reduce the chances for root rot to occur. When your cactus stops flowering, allow the top half-inch of soil to dry out before watering. Resume regular watering and fertilizing when new stem growth begins in the spring. For best growth, your cactus should receive bright, but not direct, sunlight. A location within three feet of a large window facing south, east or west would be ideal. **************************** If you have gardening questions or comments, write to Agricultural News & Publications, A-101 Poole Agricultural Center, Box 340311, Clemson University, Clemson, S.C. 29634-0311. END