DATE: 1/4/01 WRITERS: Meg R. Williamson, (864) 656-7506, diagnostician, Clemson University Plant Problem Clinic Bob Polomski, (864) 656-2604, Clemson Extension consumer horticulturist EDITOR: Giles Singleton, (864) 656-3876 WWW.CLEMSON.EDU/PSAMEDIA Winter cures for ailing houseplants CLEMSON -- Are your houseplants dropping leaves, turning yellow, getting spots, wilting or dying? If so, here are ways to diagnose the problems and nurse them back to health. You may want to blame these maladies on a plant disease, but organisms that cause plant diseases do not commonly infect interior plants. Inside, the humidity is usually too low, and there is no rainfall or wind to spread the organisms from one leaf or plant to another. In addition, potting mixes are essentially sterile, unless outdoor soil has been added. Instead of looking for diseases, check for insects and mites, which commonly infest indoor plants. If these can be ruled out, and you have used a sterile potting mix, what could be damaging your plants? Environmental or cultural conditions are probably to blame. Following are some conditions that can cause problems, the symptoms they cause and ways to bring the plants back to health. Humidity in houses is generally fairly low, and it decreases further during winter when the heat is on. Many foliage plants perform best under high humidity levels, so low humidity can cause leaf tips to dry out and turn brown. Some ways to increase humidity are: · Group plants together, so water lost by leaves and potting mix moistens the air for all; · Use a room humidifier or cool-mist vaporizer (this raises the comfort level for people too); · Set pans of water on wood stoves or radiators; · Place plants that love high humidity on a pebble-filled tray of water inside an aquarium tank with an adjustable opening at the top. Inadequate water is another common problem with indoor plants. When the soil dries out, plants wilt and leaf margins may turn brown. Yellowing and dropping of leaves are other symptoms of inadequate water. To help plants with these symptoms, water them thoroughly when the top half-inch of soil is dry. Keep in mind that symptoms of overwatering are similar to those caused by inadequate water, because roots in waterlogged soil function poorly. So if your plant is yellowing or wilting, or if the leaf edges have turned brown, check the soil moisture level before assuming that it is dry. In winter, when light levels are low and temperatures are cool, plants use less water. If you continue watering as if it were summer, you are probably overwatering. Poorly drained soil or pots can also result in overwatering. Overwatering can also cause a soft rot of stems at the soil line. This symptom is especially common with cacti and other succulents. Succulent plants fare better in dry air and soil conditions. However, these plants generally need higher levels of light than those present in most homes. Excess nutrients or other minerals can cause leaf damage. Fluoride toxicity is the most common of these problems. Many foliage plants are sensitive to fluoride and react adversely to our fluoridated water. Symptoms include brown or yellow leaf spots and dry, brown leaf tips or margins. Bottled spring water or distilled water can be purchased and used to water susceptible plants. Alternatively, tap water can be filtered to remove much of the fluoride. If you want more information on this topic, look for "Foliage Plants for the Interior," a Clemson Extension publication by Al Pertuit (EC688, cost $8.50). This can be obtained at http://cufan.clemson.edu/olos/ or from your county's Clemson Extension office (locations and numbers at http://www.clemson.edu/extension/ ). ********************** If you have gardening questions or comments, write to PSA Media Relations, A-101 Poole Agricultural Center, Clemson University, Clemson, S.C. 29634-0129. You might also want to check out our website at http://www.clemson.edu/psamedia. END