Creating An Environmentally Responsible Landscape

• Decide why you want to landscape - a responsible gardener will design a landscape that enhances the environment by reducing harmful runoff and providing a habitat to wildlife. Use these principles in all your decisions. Also consider aesthetics, food production, climate control and resale value.
• Determine how you will use your property - consider play areas for children, entertaining areas, vegetable gardens or framing existing views. Also consider what amount of time you are willing to spend working in your landscape.
• Analyze your existing site and consider your limitations - research your native soil type and have a soil test done to obtain the soil pH. Examine the natural features of the property such as native plants, natural drainage patterns and utility lines. Consider which natural features to incorporate into your design and which features will limit your design. Some factors to consider are plant temperature tolerance, flooding or saturated soils, shade, dry areas and possible salt spray.
• Develop a land use plan - using a ruler and graph paper, sketch where plants will go and the relationship between turf areas, ornamental beds and specialty beds. Notice natural water flows and eliminate runoff.
• Incorporate a landscape plan - gather information on plants adapted to your site with regards to light amount, soil types, pest resistance, mature height and management requirements.
• Incorporate an irrigation system - not all sites benefit from an in-ground irrigation system. Landscapes designed for drought resistance plants can be easily hand watered when needed. If an in-ground system is used, design it efficiently. Ensure good-quality water and be sure to separate out ornamental beds from turf and drought resistance beds from those needing more irrigation.
• Obtaining plants - once your design is finished, it is time to acquire your plant material. Purchase quality, healthy, disease- and insect-free plants. Protect your plants from extreme weather conditions as you transport them home.
• Establishment - position plants in the landscape as you have designed it to be sure that it looks okay. When it is time to plant, dig a big hole and amend the soil if compost is needed. Remember, plants need adequate drainage to survive. Once the hole is dug, gently remove the plant from the pot, lightly breaking up the root system. Place the plant in the hole no deeper than its depth in the pot. Be sure to work the soil as you backfill to eliminate air pockets. Create a soil ring to hold moisture and mulch with 2-3 inches of a good, weed free mulch. Use recommended establishment procedures to ensure healthy plants with a healthy root system. Irrigation is essential. Deep watering will allow your plants to establish a deep, healthy root system.
• Landscape maintenance - this includes watering, fertilizing, mowing, mulching, pruning, composting and pest control. Prune as needed to maintain healthy growth, fertilize according to soil test reports, maintain a 2-3 inch layer of mulch over the root system and use the least toxic pest control available.

• drought resistance
• pest resistance
• native plants resistant to indigenous pests
• non-invasive
• slow growing
• wind resistant
• thrives without additional fertilization

• berries
• seeds
• nuts
• acorns
• fleshy fruits
• butterfly plants providing nectar and food
• red tubular flowers for hummingbirds

• Food - should be provided in the form of plants that bear seeds, berries, fruit, foliage or flowers that you are willing to have eaten by birds, larval butterflies or adult butterflies. Berries, fruits, nuts and acorns are treats for wildlife.
• Water - sources in your landscape can be a birdbath, stream, pond, creek or other body of fresh water. Be sure to clean baths regularly to avoid mosquitos and bacterial growths.
• Birds - are attracted to landscapes that are planted with small tree canopies, smaller under story trees, shrubs and grasses that provide food and shelter.

• Pesticides - used in the landscape will reduce the insect population that is a food source to much of our native wildlife. Some chemicals may also poison birds as they feed on infected insects.
• Caterpillars - located on plants are the larval stage of butterflies and moths. If caterpillars are feeding on a plant, send a sample to your local county Extension office for positive control.
• Butterflies - different species are attracted to different flowering nectar plants such as wildflowers, shrubs and vines.
• Snags - or dead trees can be left in place if they do not threaten a structure. Birds will use snags for housing, perching and as a food source.

• Composting - adding compost to your soil on a regular basis will improve soil structure, texture and aeration; help loosen compacted soils; promote soils' fertility; stimulate root growth; and create a favorable environment for microorganism growth. Home built compost bins can be kept for disposing of leaves, grass clippings and vegetable kitchen scraps. Compost can also be bought commercially form landfills and garden centers. For more information on how to build and maintain a compost pile, contact your local county Extension office.
• Fertilizing - adding compost regularly to your landscape beds should provide enough nutrients to maintain growth. If an additional supply of nutrients is required by soil test reports, use a fertilizer containing at least 50% slow-release nitrogen. Use a balanced fertilizer such as 16-4-8 at a rate of 2 tbsp. per foot height of plant growth. Turfgrasses should be fertilized according to grass and soil type and soil test results from your local county Extension office.
• Irrigation - watering your landscape should only be done to supplement rainfall. Plants will thrive better on the dry side. When irrigation is needed, remember the rule of thumb "deep and infrequent". This means a deep watering after the plants have thoroughly dried. One inch of water per week should be enough to supplement most plants. Be sure to water early in the morning and design your irrigation system so that ornamental beds and turf are located on different zones. Use micro- or drip irrigation systems where feasible.
• Mowing, Pruning and Raking - selecting plants with desirable mature heights will eliminate the need for constant pruning. Follow recommended plant management practices that will keep growth slow and steady and light, yearly pruning is all that will be needed. Reduce the amount of organic matter coming from the lawn by recycling the grass clippings back into the turf. Raking of organic material that has fallen from trees and shrubs can be used adequately as mulch.
• Mulching - applying a 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch over plants' root systems will reduce moisture loss, moderate soil temperatures, reduce weed growth and add to the beauty of your landscape. Mulches can also be used to replace turfgrass or areas that are difficult to mow and natural shading areas where nothing else will grow. Keep all mulches at least 2 inches from the trunks of plants.
• Pest Management - it is unreasonable to thrive for an insect, disease and weed-free landscape. An environmentally friendly landscape will work with nature to provide for natural pest controls using beneficial insects. Use the Integrated Pest Management (IPM) method of gardening. Carefully monitor plants for insect or disease problems and use chemical controls as a last resort method. If these are needed, use the least toxic products first.
• Preventing Site Runoff - direct downspouts toward low areas or swales in the landscape to collect rainfall and allow it to filter through the soil. Shape the site to prohibit water flowing from your site into storm drains. Naturalized areas or berms can be used to create natural collectors where excess water can percolate into the soil. Use porous materials for walkways and drives and reduce the amount of nonporous material on site.

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