by Mark Arena
Two methods can be used to propagate Crapemyrtles by home gardeners, hardwood (dormant) cutting propagation and semihardwood cutting propagation.
(The preferred method)
Collect hardwood (dormant) cuttings made from the selected plant after frost, but before hard freezes occur (once leaves drop). Three to five cuttings, 6" to 8" long, may be stuck in a one gallon nursery container, preferably larger. The potting mix should be a moistened, organic, potting soil. Be especially sure that the soil is well-drained. One to two inches of the top of the cuttings should remain above the soil line. Make sure the cuttings are right side up.
Through the winter, place the pots in a cold area, but avoid hard freezes. A garage might serve well depending on your climate. Little water or light is needed. Check soil moisture from the drain holes of your container.
In early spring move the containers to a sunny spot in the garden and keep watered. During extremely cold weather, protect them with a cover or move them to a protected area. After six to twelve inches of new growth develops, your crapemyrtles are ready to be planted in the ground. Remember to choose a planting site with full sun or your flower production will be little to none.
(During the growing season)
Use soft to semihardwood terminal cuttings from healthy plants. Low concentrations of a rooting hormone will speed up rooting but is not required. Place the cuttings under mist and shade. Roots should be produced in 4-6 weeks. Container, potting mix and number of cuttings per container are same as for hardwood cuttings.
If sticking softwood cuttings with leaves, it is important to keep them from drying.Using a soda bottle as a humidity chamber is an easy way to do this.
The following source deserves credit and offers additional information on Crapemyrtles:
Crapemyrtle, A Grower's Thoughts
By David Byers, American Nurseryman Publication Company
Cost: approximately $30.00